Martyr Mercury Outboard Anode Kit

Package Includes:

• (1) CM17264C1
• (2) CM826134
• (1) CM818298
• Fastening hardware

Applications: Mercury F30 HP, F40 HP, F60 HP Outboards

The protection of the underwater metal parts on your boat or motor from corrosive electrolytic action is a very real and necessary concern. We have all seen the eating away on shafts, propellers, rudders, trim tabs, and other fittings and drive parts underwater. The results are damaging, unattractive, affect operating performance, and cause excessive maintenance of hull, propellers, engine, accessories and fittings. Some metals react more actively than others and will be eaten up first. This activeness is the reason that a steel fitting can corrode away while a brass one next to it will not. Both these parts could be protected, however, by a properly installed Martyr activated alloy anode. The Martyr anode will be eaten away and the steel and brass fittings will be untouched. The sacrificing action of the anode is the reason it is called a sacrificial anode, and the source of the name "Martyr".

The use of an activated alloy such as an “anode” will help. Anodes will distract the corrosion action to itself and away from expensive metal parts. Fortunately anodes are relatively inexpensive and are readily available. Factors such as warm water temperatures, polluted water and stray current corrosion can cause your anodes to waste away at an accelerated rate so it is wise to check them on a regular basis. Many people refer to these types of anodes as " ZINCS ".

General Features:

• Martyr / Canada Metal only uses mil-spec mil-a-l800l alloy in all of their premium marine anodes
• This alloy helps the anode erode inward giving the anode a sandblasted appearance
• Canada Metal uses a special steel combination fastener that makes it possible to use their Ball drive, which is a hex driver with a universal ball tip (Ball-drive is Sold Separately)
• Anodes must be replaced when they are 70% eroded

What is Electrolytic Corrosion? If you've noticed corrosion on the metal parts of your boat located below the waterline, you are the victim of "galvanic corrosion". The scientific term "electrolytic" or "galvanic" corrosion describes the type of corrosion that anodes are intended to absorb. This corrosion is normally caused by different metals being near each other in salt or fresh water. Galvanic corrosion, an electromechanical action, causes metal parts to decompose. This destructive process is caused by electrolysis, an electric current set up between the metal parts of your boat, with salt or fresh water as the electrolyte. The effect is like a flashlight battery -- an electrical current is created and continues until one of the metals is eaten up -- the battery goes "dead".

What causes corrosion? Salt water is a better conductor than freshwater, so corrosion is worse in salt water. Generally, corrosion rates increase in proportion to the amount of oxygen in the water. However, cracks and crevices, which are areas starved of oxygen, become anodic and corrode also. Higher temperature increases corrosion rates - doubling for every 30 degrees C (55 degrees F). There are various types of microorganisms that can contribute to corrosion, either by removing protection or causing a corrosive environment.

Why do I need anodes? You need anodes on your engine because when two different metals are in contact, electrons will flow from the more negatively charged metal (anode) to the more positive metal (cathode). If you want to protect both types of metal from corrosion, you must add a third metal such as zinc, although magnesium and aluminum are also used. This active metal becomes the anode for both metals. The zinc, aluminum, or magnesium sacrifices itself to protect the other two metals, hence the term "sacrificial anode".

How to Choose the Correct Type of Anode? Throughout the world you may find many different water environments which may all require different solutions. The three main water types are salt, fresh, and brackish. Martyr™ zinc and aluminum anodes protect very well in salt and brackish waters where magnesium anodes protect the best in fresh water.

DO NOT MIX different mix different types of Anodes on the same vessel.

• Zinc Alloy Anodes = Salt water only
• Not recommended for use in fresh water
• Alloy is manufactured to meet or exceed US Military Specification (MIL-A-18001K)
• Aluminum Alloy Anodes = Salt, Fresh or Brackish water
  • Not recommended, but can be used in fresh water
  • Proven to last longer than zinc due to increased capacity
  • Alloy is manufactured to meet or exceed US Military Specification (MIL-A-24779(SH))
• Magnesium Alloy Anodes = Fresh water only
  • The only alloy proven to protect your boat in fresh water
  • It is not recommended to use magnesium anodes in salt or brackish water .
    • The result may be an accelerated corrosion rate, which may damage the metal parts of your boat and leave you with no anode protection in a short period of time.
  • A Special Note on Magnesium Anodes for Fresh Water Essentially, fresh water is a much less conductive environment than salt water, therefore magnesium anodes are your best choice as they are much more active (less noble) than zinc or aluminum anodes
  • The result is increased efficiency thus superior protection for your underwater metal components